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Anyone Else is Just Looking Around

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Caveat emptor

December 5, 2018 by Bill

A continuation of Just 'Looking Around'

Experience and knowledge are incredibly important when choosing a home inspector or commercial building inspector!

“It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot — it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

A low-priced service is often a dead giveaway to inexperience and incompetence. Below are some humorous examples...

Caveat Emptor!

100's of pounds of Bat poo???

Nah... you were actually right the first time! It's just some COMMON  insulation!

I'm SURE the unnecessary alarm you raised changed the "whole tone of the inspection..." and the transaction!

It says "Fuel"... but what is it?

Perhaps the word "Fuel" threw you off as being a buried Fuel tank...

No moldy smell at all!!!

That's because concrete stains on lumber previously used for forming concrete during the home's original construction don't smell like mold... they don't even resemble it!

But a Professional Inspector would have known that.

"Looks like drain catch... but that's all I have..."

Well you were close Mr. Inspector!

It's a condensate pump. Typically used when a floor drain or sink is some distance from the appliance that needs to dispose of condensation. I don't suppose the condensate drain plumbed into it and the clear discharge hose out of it provided you any clues...

Copper "wire" on gas water heater

That "wire" is actually part of the thermocouple. A necessary and perfectly normal component of a gas-fired water heater... That's how I would "word it".

Ever seen mold insulation?

Nope!  This darker colored loose fill insulation doesn't look like mold to me, but go ahead and have your clients waste valuable time and money having it tested!  I'm sure they will appreciate your vigilance!

Explain the basics for me and my client...

It's a doorbell transformer... its function is to reduce 120 volts to a much lower 8-24 volts only needed to power the house doorbell.

I like your colleague's suggestion of adding "Doorbell Expert" credentials to your marketing. I'm sure there's a logo for this! It will help impress future clients that you are no longer inept at identifying even the most basic of house systems.

Basic Inspecting 101

Fundamental insulation identification seems to be a recurring theme among these folks... Makes me wonder if they attended the same school of incompetency together?

p.s. - It's loose fill cellulose... one of the top three preferred choices of thermal insulation installed in homes across the country. But truly I understand the confusion when many of your similarly incompetent colleagues mistake it for asbestos, mold, and.... 100's of pounds of BAT POO!!!

Today's "whatzit"!

[*facepalm*]

I'm going out on a limb here and call it a portable air conditioner not currently in service...

Or it could be HAL from '2001: A Space Odyssey'! Ask it to confirm its identity or "open the pod bay doors..."

Foundation type

I'm with your colleague on this... and certainly hope you've mastered the ability to determine the difference between these two foundation types!  For your client's sake.

Phone wires in the attic! Oh my!

I would hand the clients a supply of tin foil hats, and alert them to the serious nature of how the government has tapped into their phone system to record their conversations.... Careful though! The walls have ears!

 

Pump directions...

Umm... I feel badly for your clients.  Really... I'm so sorry.

Specialized service without specialized knowledge

So.... you sold your clients on a specialized service that you have no clue what it tells you?  Interesting!

I have a better question...

What are 'Professional Home Inspectors' supposed to already know prior to calling themselves a "Professional"?

Cat litter?

Umm... pretty sure any reasonably experienced inspector would simply identify this as Vermiculite insulation but let me google that for you!

Missed this on the test...

What can it cause?

Oh... I dunno… upper respiratory infections, sneezing, asthma, premature mechanical system failure, coil icing, reduced air flow... but nothing too serious.  No need to alarm your clients.

On the fence...

So get off that fence and open up your hand book about properly splicing circuit conductors...

And by the way... your social media colleague is wrong.

Professional Incompetence

This is called a "Dual Fuel" heat pump system. A common and effective auxiliary heat source for the heat pump when demand is too great or the heat pump can no longer provide efficient heat.

But a (ehem) 'Professional Home Inspector' would know this...

Anything specific I should be aware of?

Yes!  Yes there is!

But first, let's address the specific things your clients should have been made aware of about you...

Yet another insulation ID...

Well... one of your colleagues identified it as "hundreds of pounds" of bat poo...

Really folks!  Identifying insulation is a pretty basic and fundamental skill needed to be a home inspector... especially for insulation as common (in both new and older construction) as loose fill cellulose in the photos.

Did you inform your clients you "don't do old homes much"? What other basic topics can the social media platforms help you with?

Schedule 40 water heater flue

On direct vent high efficiency water heaters, PVC is used for the exhaust vent.

On a natural draft water heater such as this... NO... no it can't be used. A legitimate home inspector would know this, just as a legitimate contractor who obviously didn't install this would.

More insulation help...

Ooooo!  I know!  I know!

It's attic kitty litter!!!  Social media said so!

It's working!

What? This evidence of a dangerous and hazardous back draft condition at the gas-fired water heater? Nah. You said it's working... no need to irritate the real estate agent and lose future referrals by making mention of it. (wink wink)

Anyone care to refresh me?

Better question...

Anyone care to refresh your clients with a better inspector who is actually knowledgeable and well versed in the potential concerns?

Upside down?

Well... experienced inspectors knowledgeable in roofing materials and their installation know this as ethylene propylene diene terpolymer membrane, or EPDM for short. As well, experienced inspectors can identify the concerns you have depicted in your photos.

But yeah... go with upside down... your clients will appreciate that.

Too warm for furnace test...

It's quite apparent you've been reading your fellow colleague's misguided comments on social media regarding temperature limitations for testing the furnace...

Let me know how that's worked out for you.

Another "Doorbell Expert" candidate!

You'll do fine young doorbell Padawan! Your Doorbell Expert merit badge is just around the corner.

By the way... these aren't permitted to be installed within the panel enclosure.  Just an FYI

CMI a marketing credential?

What? (look of shock)

Are you saying that the Certified Master Inspector® or "CMI®" designation isn't actually earned? It's merely paid for and fake checks for $1500.00 sent out to entice inspectors into falling for it?

For shame! Hope the general public doesn't fall for this gimmick either!

BTW... is it just me, or does it seem that an unprecedented number of inspectors with CMI credentials are asking basic questions on social media groups?

Supply pipe through wall

Well... do you have a better suggestion as to where the drain and supply pipes should be routed instead of in the wall? Perhaps across the floor?

SMH...

On inspection now!

Sorry...

Your clients need more help than we can provide for this most basic of pressing questions.

Unprofessional?

Nah...

Not if your clients also used you for transportation to the property for the inspection!

But hey... don't drop the Uber or Lyft gigs!  They'll come in handy for you when this 'Professional Home Inspector' gig surprisingly goes under.

Another tale from This Old House

Well... concrete laundry sinks are made out of... you guessed it!  Concrete!

And for your second question... it all depends on the severity of the rust... if it is indeed rust since you had difficulty identifying concrete.

Been talked about before...

So if this has been talked about before, why are you asking again now?

It's a legit job request! (wink wink)

Mr. "John Smith" has used my services numerous times before... but seems he's always in the hospital for something and his check with extra funds attached always bounces after I've paid the "caretaker" the earnest money with it.  Sure hope Mr. "Smith" gets better soon.

CUAL definition

The letters "CUAL" on the circuit breakers mean the device is rated for copper (CU) wire or aluminum (AL) wire conductors to be attached.... not that the conductors are copper-coated aluminum.

(facepalm)

Not the only one taking notice...

Well... this is a tamper resistant electric receptacle. They have been required for some time in most residential applications.  Most competent inspectors know this!

Sure they are a pain sometimes... but come on man!  You're giving the good inspectors a bad name... and the contractors over in the electrical group are laughing. I'm beginning to agree with both the comments there.

Inspector or someone just ‘looking around’?

April 24, 2018 by Bill

On a recent trip to the hardware and implement store, I purchased a rubber mallet and inexpensive hatchet from one of those bargain tool bins you encounter in the center isle near the checkout lanes. It was an impulse buy (just as they hope you do) for some tools I thought would come in handy on our next family camping trip. I knew better, but foolishly figured I'd at least get a season out of them. Every tool in the bin was color coded by price, and all were under $10.00. I threw them in the camper for our next trip the following weekend. As we were setting up camp, I grabbed the rubber mallet to pound in stakes for the ground mat outside the camper.  On the third stake the handle broke and the rubber end went flying, narrowly missing my head. So much for the season with that one! I grabbed the hatchet and used the blunt end to finish the task. Camp was finally set and I needed to start the fire. I grabbed the hatchet to split a small log for kindling. With the hatchet wedged nearly center, I began to pound the log against terra firma. The log resisted and the inevitable happened. The metal handle of the hatchet bent... slightly at first, then almost fully to a 90 degree angle from the head. INCREDIBLE! I thought to myself. I knew these tools were cheap... but seriously?  Not even capable of completing a full task or surviving a few minutes use! Even under $10 each, it was not money well spent... it was money and time wasted... replicas of better tools in appearance only! Oh they came with a lifetime warranty... so I could certainly replace them AFTER the camping trip when they were needed the most. And I did replace them... with more expensive and better quality tools I KNEW I could rely on in the future.

What does this have to do with inspections you may ask? Experience and knowledge are incredibly important when choosing a home inspector or commercial building inspector! This also comes with a price you won't find in the bargain bin or closeout isle. Not much different than strength, performance, and durability attributes of quality hand tools.

“It’s unwise to pay too much, but it’s worse to pay too little. When you pay too much, you lose a little money — that is all. When you pay too little, you sometimes lose everything, because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do. The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot — it can’t be done. If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for the risk you run, and if you do that you will have enough to pay for something better.”

The experienced, competent, and qualified inspectors know their value and charge accordingly.  The same can be said for the unqualified as well! Bargain basement fees are precisely that. You get what you pay for... and often less. Just as I had with my purchase of the bargain bin hand tools.

So how do you tell them apart?

With the recent surge in real estate occurring in several markets, the industry is seeing more and more bargain basement companies hanging out their freshly printed signs and calling themselves 'inspectors'. They can certainly be attractive to unsuspecting consumers enticed by their low low prices and endless array of 'free' widgets to [cough] sweeten the deal. They can't set themselves apart with experience or legitimate qualifications... so all they have left is price and perhaps a worthless free widget or two. In order to keep up with heavy demand, some companies have hired additional 'inspectors' with very little knowledge or experience. Their focus has become quantity over quality to appease real estate agents these companies rely on for a steady stream of work.

One needs to research and ask specific questions above and beyond the typical "how much".

  • Inquire about their experience, credentials, background, and qualifications.
  • Who will actually be performing the inspection?
  • How long have they been a Full-time inspector?
  • Are they full-time inspectors, or is this just a part-time side job?
  • Ask about the average time required to perform the inspection (anything below 3 hours for an average sized house should be suspect in our area).
  • How detailed are their reports? (Ask for a sample to compare with other inspection services)
  • What specialized equipment and accompanying professional training do they have?
  • Ask for references... several of them.
  • Do they seem more interested in touting their warranties and other sales gimmicks than performing the inspection to the best of their ability?
  • Are they insured or bonded?
  • Did they ask you for any details about the property or specific concerns you may have?
  • Finally... ask about the fee.

A low-priced service is often a dead giveaway to inexperience, indifference, and desperation for income. Or it's a loss-leader strategy to trap you into more profitable goods or services (such as referring "preferred" contractors for a commission or offering to quote and perform repairs for any identified concerns). Incompetency is often more difficult to determine until after the fact. But if you do a little digging in your research, you might come across some of the low cost options asking questions like:

Or....

The ineptness continued in the replies that followed...

Or asking....

Or...

Or this...

Or this...

Or this...

Or this...

Or even this...

Oh yes... these are real questions posed by  'inspectors' who's clients I can only pray got a second and far more qualified opinion... not just a broken mallet and bent hatchet with a warranty.

Caveat emptor!

Is it time for a new water heater?

November 9, 2017 by Bill

Try this simple calculation provided by the U.S. Dept. of Energy:
Divide the total amount of your gas/electric utility bill by seven (7) the next time you pay it. (Gas utility for gas water heater; electric utility for electric water heater.) The end result will be close to the amount you spend on heating your water. Water heating is the second highest energy use after home heating. Under normal conditions, water heating accounts for up to 20 – 25% of your utility bill.

So why do we always wait until the old one fails before we wisely shop for a replacement? How many of us have had water heater failure during the most inappropriate times. You know – Holidays, family visits, weddings, proms, etc., and end up with an emergency purchase. The last thing on our mind is energy-efficiency. We just want hot water, and we want it NOW! Instead of becoming well-informed consumers, we turn into emergency impulse buyers. We rely upon our plumber, contractor, local merchants, friends, and relatives for either the best price or brand. (As a rule of thumb, the least expensive water heater is the most expensive to operate.) With this in mind, lets examine the various considerations we all should take before purchasing our next water heater.

What size or capacity will I need?

  • Small – Medium Home 1-2 people 40 gal. Electric; 30 gal. other (gas/propane or oil)
    • (1 bath, Clothes Washer).
  • Medium Home 3 people 50 gal. Electric; 40 gal. gas/propane 30 gal. oil.
    • (1.5 baths, Clothes Washer, Dishwasher)
  • Medium – Large Home 3-4 people 65 gal. Electric; 40 gal. other
    • (2 baths, Dishwasher, Heavy-duty Clothes Washer)
  • Large Home 5 people 80 gal. Electric; 50 gal. other
    • (2+ baths, Heavy-duty Clothes Washer & Dish Washer)

This scale is just a recommendation. Factors such as whirlpools, etc should also factor in and be weighed when making your decision. Check with your local professionals for more accurate sizing.

Types of Water Heaters:

Storage type:

The most popular for residential water heating. They operate by releasing hot water from the top of the tank when a hot water tap is on. Cold water is introduced to the bottom of the tank as hot water is drawn. These tanks operate on electric, gas, propane, and oil. Because the water is constantly heated with this system, energy can be wasted even when not being used. This is referred to as “standby heat loss”. Consider tanks with at least 1.5 inches (3.8 centimeters) of foam insulation and energy efficiency rating shown on the EnergyGuide labels. Insulation is instrumental in the prevention of standby heat loss.

Demand type:

Also commonly known as “Instantaneous” water heating. This system significantly reduces standby heat loss and reduces energy consumption by 20-30%. With these systems you never run out of hot water. Water travels through a piping system within the unit, and either a gas burner or electric element heats the water on demand. The biggest drawback to this system is limited flow rate. Demand heaters provide hot water at a rate of 2 to 4 gallons per minute. More than adequate if operating hot water at only one location. However inadequate, if two or more are operating at the same time (i.e. shower and clothes washer). For additional costs, demand heaters can be installed in parallel sequence allowing or meeting hot water demands for multiple faucets operating at the same time. Gas fired demand heaters tend to have higher flow rates than electric. You should note that some gas demand heaters operate with a constant pilot light, however, the amount of energy consumed by a pilot light is quite small.

Heat Pump type:

Electric systems that move heat from one place to another instead of generating heat directly in one spot. They operate in the same manner as refrigerators only in reverse. They can act alone with built-in storage tanks or as add-ons to existing water heaters. They have a high initial cost and require installation in locations that maintain a 40 degree Fahrenheit or higher temperature yearlong. To operate most efficiently, they should be placed in areas having excess heat, such as a furnace room. They will not function properly in a cold space.

Tankless Coil & Indirect types: (Operate off your home heating system.)

Tankless Coil – No separate storage tank is needed in the tankless coil water heater system. Water is heated directly inside the boiler in a hydronic (i.e. hot water) heating system unit. Water flows through a heat exchanger in the boiler whenever a hot water tap is turned on. During the heating season, the tankless coil works well because the heating system is used regularly. The system is less efficient during warmer clients when the boiler is used less frequently.

Indirect – Requires a separate storage tank. Uses the same method of heating water through a heat exchanger as the tankless coil system. However, this heated water then flows to an insulated storage tank (most carry a lifetime warranty). This system is more efficient than the tankless coil because the boiler does not need to operate frequently. When an indirect water heater is used with a highly efficient boiler, they combine for one of the least expensive methods of water heating.

Solar type:

Strongly dependent on the sun, solar water heaters if properly designed, installed and maintained can satisfy half to nearly all of a home’s hot water demand. System designs are either classified as passive, active or direct. The initial costs are high but overall operating costs are significantly lower.

Passive systems operate without pumps and controls and can be more reliable, durable, less maintenance, longer lasting, and less expensive to operate than active systems. Active solar water heaters require pumps and controls to move heat-transfer fluids from collectors to storage tanks. Both systems often require conventional water heaters as back-ups.

A direct solar water heating system circulates water through collectors and is not appropriate or recommended in climates in which freezing temperatures occur.

Capacity & Rating Efficiency

Most consumers base their purchase on the size of the water heater. However, the peak hour demand capacity, referred to as the first-hour rating (FHR) and Energy Factor (EF) should be the major basis.

FHR is a measure of how much hot water the heater will deliver during a busy hour, and it is required by law to be listed on the water heaters EnergyGuide label. Gas water heaters have higher FHR’s than electric units of the same size. It may be to your benefit to switch to a smaller gas unit. Please bear in mind that if you do decide to switch, other installations costs may be incurred. See the venting section below.

EF is the best indicator of a water heater’s efficiency, which is based on recovery efficiency (how fast heat is transferred to the water). In short or layman’s terms, the higher the EF, the more efficient the water heater.

Venting

Things that you should be aware of especially if you are:

  • – converting to a gas or oil-fired water heater in an electrically heated home.
    • In this instance, since no chimney will be available, you have the option of installing a direct vent or power vented gas or oil water heater. Flue gases are extracted through the sidewall of the home.
  • – converting from an oil-fired water heater to a propane or gas model.
    • May require that your existing chimney or vent to be resized and the liner changed to maintain adequate draft to avoid condensation in the vent system. Alternatively, a direct vent or power vented unit could be installed.
  • – replacing an existing gas, propane or oil-fired water heater with a more efficient model.
    • Sidewall venting may be the only practical option because of the potential increase in condensation formed in the venting system.
  • – replacing an existing gas, propane, or oil-fired water heater with an electric water heater.
    • Electric water heaters require no venting. They are simple to install and can be located in many areas of the home.

Additional Important Note

Most municipalities require permits, etc. prior to installation/replacement of water heater systems. Consult your local code officials for details. As always, if you feel uncomfortable performing any of these tasks, please consult a professional.

Roofs and Heavy Snows

November 9, 2017 by Bill

Following a winter storm, many homeowners become concerned about the weight of heavy snowfall on their home’s roof. The questions asked are: “Is my roof going to hold all that snow, or will it collapse?” and “How can I prevent a roof collapse?”

Answers:

Most homes today are constructed and designed to bear the weight of snow. The roof system is designed to transfer or spread a portion of the weight from the trusses or rafters to the wall-framing members and down to the foundation and footers. Keep in mind; this relies on proper construction procedures and designs. Older homes may have a greater rafter span (reducing the load they can carry), and if the roofing system has not been well maintained, may invite potential problems associated with excessive snow and its eventual melt. Damage will most likely exist at the roof support system in older homes that have not been maintained or properly vented. This damage occurs over time and will likely weaken the support system and eventually lead to failure.

With that being said, most “sloped” roof designs will naturally transfer and shed the weight of snow. The roof designs to be most concerned about are flat or “built-up” roof systems that have not been maintained or designed properly. Flat roofs are typically associated with and most prone to failure and collapse.  Some signs that you may have a problem are evidence of active leaks, cracked or split framing members, and sagging of the structure beneath. Be watchful for signs of leaking and water intrusion. Leaks won’t always show up in the obvious areas. The source of a leak is often difficult to discover as water has a tendency to “travel” to different areas before showing evidence of a problem.

Roof collapse may be inevitable with a roof lacking proper maintenance or load design. If you are concerned with an impending collapse, I recommend you contact a qualified roofing contractor or professional engineer to evaluate your roofing system. They can recommend any repairs or preventative methods that may be needed.

A more prominent problem to be concerned with during the winter months is “ice damming”. A sign that you have an ice dam problem is Icicles hanging along the eaves of a roof. Icicles form when snow accumulates on the roof, melts and then refreezes at the roof’s edge. This ice build-up is called “ice damming.”  This build-up prevents melting snow and ice from draining into gutters and off your roof.  The blocked water can work under the roofing and into your home creating a variety of serious problems.  Some problems you can see, others you cannot. A few issues associated with ice damming are sagging gutters, stained or sagging ceilings, and loose roof shingles. These are the easiest to fix. More serious problems involve damage that you can’t see. This includes damaged or water logged insulation (reducing R-value and increasing heating costs), promotion of mold and mildew growth, and major structural damage.

A variety of methods to prevent ice damming exist. One option is the installation of heat tape, a thin electrified ?tape? that heats up and melts the ice dam. This is only a “band aid” to the actual problem of proper attic ventilation and heat build up in the attic. These issues should be addressed to properly correct and prevent the problem of ice damming. If your home has a steep sloped roof, and is over twenty years old, a 98% probability exists that your attic has excessive heat, leading to ice damming. Even newly constructed homes may have serious attic heat problems!

Removing snow can help prevent roof collapse and ice damming. It is recommended that a professional contractor be hired to perform this task. Great safety hazards exist with snow-covered roofs. Snow and ice covered roofs become extremely slippery and create a great potential for falls, the leading cause of home injuries.

Newer Home or Older Home?

November 9, 2017 by Bill

The main advantage to a newer home is that there is less damage, both from Mother Nature and from previous occupants. You typically get to create your own damage or watch it happen naturally. The main disadvantage to a newer home is that you do not know what kind of damage Mother Nature and other forces are going to inflict upon your house. The house and its structure are still adjusting and moving, and trying to get comfortable in its setting. What you see may not be what you get some years down the road.

The main advantage to an older home is that Mother Nature has already inflicted the majority of her damage upon your house, and additional damage probably won’t occur unless major rainfall, flood, or seismic activity occurs, or unless you alter the landscaping or remodel the structure itself. The home is comfortable in it setting. It has generally stopped moving and adjusting. What you see is what you get. Unfortunately, you typically don’t get to create your own damage or watch it happen naturally, and there are no fond memories associated with the damage that is there.

We typically define a newer home as one that is less than ten years old. An older home, of course, is defined as one that is more than ten years old.

The Actions of Nature and settlement-

When a house is being built, the ground is graded and tentatively landscaped. Regular rainfall throughout the year would help our houses settle gradually. This means that if you move into your house in December, you may not see any settlement activity (typically known as common wall and ceiling cracks) until the first major rainfall comes the following spring, or even later after prolonged periods of drought. Then, all of a sudden, settlement damage occurs after the first rains. You might even consider it major settlement damage, even when it is common settlement damage, simply because it has happened to your house. Your beautiful new home is now a wreck and collapsing around you as you sleep. This is not necessarily so.

If the house is a newer home, you might notice hairline cracks develop at both interior and exterior locations, particularly at door and window corners, and typically in a diagonal manner. Usually these are common stucco and drywall cracks. Sometimes these cracks will follow the drywall seams, forming perfectly straight lines and 90° corners. When they follow drywall seams, they can appear anywhere, depending on the quality of the workmanship: how well the drywall sections were fitted together, whether or not seam tape was used, the quality of the seam tape, the type of nails or screws used to secure the drywall, the number of screws or nails used to secure the drywall, and the quality and thickness of the ceiling or wall texture. Ceiling and wall texturing, and painting, prevent home inspectors from inspecting workmanship to determine why drywall seam cracks appear.

If the house is more than ten years old, most settlement activity probably, but not necessarily, has already occurred simply because it probably has been through several years of good rainfall. This presumes many things in the older home though, such as:

  • The house having been well maintained by previous homeowners;
  • Fully functional gutters and downspouts in place;
  • Grading and drainage directing water away from the foundation;
  • Vegetation, which has not been allowed to grow too close to the foundation;
  • Any leaks in the roof, plumbing, or drainage systems, as well as any damage from those leaks, having been repaired immediately to prevent additional damage, which sometimes might be concealed in the walls or ceiling.

These are a lot of presumptions, and typically not all of them are valid for any single property. Any type of renovation or remodeling of any section of an older home is going to uncover problems or defects that will not be noted in an inspection report, typically because they could not be seen or detected, especially in a furnished structure. Knowing this, you should budget appropriately for unexpected and unforeseen circumstances during any remodeling.

Home Permit History

November 9, 2017 by Bill

A building permit is required by most municipalities for new construction, remodeling, additions, and updates. A fee is usually paid for the permit and given final approval by the local building inspector once the project is completed. A home permit history is a search of the building permits awarded and approved for a home by the municipality. In other words, making sure the building is legal.

Don’t I get this with an inspection?

A home permit history is not performed as part of the home inspection process. The home inspection report is not a substitute for, and should not be interpreted as a home permit history. Home Inspectors often recommend that the buyer obtain a permit history on a home they want to purchase. However, most buyers don’t heed this advice, which can lead to problems later.

Why should I perform a history search?

Homeowners often do work without permits to save money. If discovered, it may be necessary to apply for permits after the fact. This may involve paying penalties in addition to the permit application fees, or worse, tearing down the new addition and starting fresh. If you are buying a home that has been remodeled over time, there’s a good chance that some of the work was done without permits.

Finding out that building permits were not acquired or approved can create many problems, including being required to “re-do” the remodeling because it won’t pass stringent building codes. Sometimes absence of permits or approvals are discovered when the buyers are trying to add their personal touches to the remodeling process. Their contractor applies for a permit only to discover the work done by the sellers last year to make the home more “appealing”, is still awaiting final approval from the city. Many homebuyers have discovered and learned the hard way by forgoing a permit search. Make sure you understand what future consequences may be in store for you.

Sometimes sellers may not be aware of the problem, since some contractors will skip the permit process (without the owners knowledge) in order to save time. Searching the permit record during the inspection contingency time period may create opportunity to negotiate a satisfactory resolution to permit issues before closing. You may have to visit the municipal building or planning department to search the permit record of the home. This should be included in the due diligence investigations of the property.

Local municipal building inspection departments can be located through your local phone book and internet searches.

 

3 Common Dayton Home Buyer Mistakes

November 9, 2017 by Bill

  •  Mistake #1:

Thinking you can’t afford a home or inspection. Today, buying the home of your dreams in Dayton or Springfield is easier than ever before. Many people who thought that buying the home they wanted was simply out of their reach are now enjoying a new lifestyle in their very own new home. Buying a home is the smartest financial decision you will ever make. In fact, most American home owners would be financially broke at retirement if it wasn’t for one saving grace – the equity in their home. Furthermore, mortgage rates are more flexible today than ever and tax allowances favor home ownership. Real estate values have always risen steadily. Of course there are peaks and valleys, but the long term trend is a consistent increase. This means that every month when you make a mortgage payment the amount that you owe on the home goes down and the value typically increases. This owe less – worth more situation is called equity build-up and is the reason you can’t afford not to buy. Even if you have little money for a down payment or credit problems, chances are that you can still buy that new home. It just comes down to knowing the right strategies, and working with the right people. See below.

  •  Mistake #2:

Not hiring a buyer’s agent to represent you. Buying property is a complex and stressful task. In fact, it is often the biggest single investment you will make in your lifetime. At the same time, real estate transactions have become increasingly complicated. New technology, laws, procedures and competition from other buyers require buyer agents to perform at an ever-increasing level of professionalism. For many homebuyers, the process turns into a terrible, stressful ordeal. In addition, making the wrong decisions can end up costing you thousands of dollars. It does not have to be this way! Work with a reputable buyer’s agent who has a keen understanding of the real estate business and who is on your side. Buyer’s agents have a fiduciary duty to you. That means they are loyal to only you and are obligated to look out for your best interests. Buyer’s agents can help you find the best home, the best lender and the best inspector. Best of all, in most cases, the buyer’s agent is paid out of the seller’s commission, even though he/she works for you. Trying to buy a home without an agent at all is, well… unthinkable.

  •  Mistake #3:

Getting a cheap home inspection. Buying a home is probably the most expensive purchase you will ever make. This is no time to shop for a cheap inspection. The cost of a home inspection is very small relative to the home being inspected. The additional cost of hiring an experienced and certified inspector is almost insignificant. As a homebuyer, you have recently been crunching the numbers, negotiating offers, adding up closing costs, shopping for mortgages and trying to get the best deals. Do not stop now. Do not let your real estate agent, a patty-cake inspector or anyone else talk you into skimping here. Experienced and certified inspectors perform the best inspections by far. Experienced inspectors earn their fees many times over. They do more, they deserve more, and yes they generally charge a little more. Do yourself a favor…and pay a little more for the quality inspection you deserve.

More on GFCI’s

November 9, 2017 by Bill

A “GFCI” is a ground fault circuit interrupter. A ground fault circuit interrupter is an inexpensive electrical device that, if installed in household branch circuits, could prevent over two-thirds of the approximately 300 electrocutions still occurring each year in and around the home. Installation of the device could also prevent thousands of burn and electric shock injuries each year.

The GFCI is designed to protect people from severe or fatal electric shocks Because a GFCI detects ground faults, it can also prevent some electrical fires and reduce the severity of others by interrupting the flow of electric current.

THE PROBLEM

Have you ever experienced an electric shock? If you did, the shock probably happened because your hand or some other part of your body contacted a source of electrical current and your body provided a path for the electrical current to go to the ground, so that you received a shock.

An unintentional electric path between a source of current and a grounded surface is referred to as a “ground-fault.” Ground faults ground-fault. Ground faults occur when current is leaking somewhere, in effect, electricity is escaping to the ground. How it leaks is very important. If your body provides a path to the ground for this leakage, you could be injured, burned, severely shocked, or electrocuted.

Some examples of accidents that underscore this hazard include the following:

– Two children, ages five and six, were electrocuted in Texas when a plugged-in hair dryer fell into the tub in which they were bathing.

– A three-year-old Kansas girl was electrocuted when she touched a faulty countertop.

These two electrocutions occurred because the electrical current escaping from the appliance traveled through the victim to ground (in these cases, the grounded plumbing fixtures). Had a GFCI been installed, these deaths would probably have been prevented because a GFCI would have sensed the current flowing to ground and would have switched off the power before the electrocution occurred.

HOW THE GFCI WORKS

In the home’s wiring system, the GFCI constantly monitors electricity flowing in a circuit, to sense any loss of current. If the current flowing through the circuit differs by a small amount from that returning, the GFCI quickly switches off power to that circuit. The GFCI interrupts power faster than a blink of an eye to prevent a lethal dose of electricity. You may receive a painful shock, but you should not be electrocuted or receive a serious shock injury.

Here’s how it may work in your house.. Suppose a bare wire inside an appliance touches the metal case. The case is then charged with electricity. If you touch the appliance with one hand while the other hand is touching a grounded metal object, like a water faucet, you will receive a shock. If the appliance is plugged into an outlet protected by a GFCI, the power will be shut off before a fatal shock would occur.

AVAILABILITY OF GFCIs

Three common types of ground fault circuit interrupters are available for home use:

* RECEPTACLE TYPE

This type of GFCI is used in place of the standard duplex receptacle found throughout the house It fits into the standard outlet box and protects you against “ground faults’ whenever an electrical product is plugged into the outlet Most receptacle-type GFCls can be installed so that they also protect other electri-cal outlets further “down stream” in the branch circuit.

* CIRCUIT BREAKER TYPE

In homes equipped with circuit breakers rather than fuses, a circuit breaker GFCI may be installed in a panel box to give protection to selected circuits The circuit breaker GFCI serves a dual purpose – not only will it shut off electricity in the event of a “ground-fault,” but it will also trip when a short circuit or an ov.er-load occurs Protection covers the wiring and each outlet, lighting fixture, heater, etc served by the branch circuit protected by the GFCI in the panel box.

* PORTABLE TYPE

Where permanent GFCls are not practical, portable GFCls may be used One type contains the GFCI circuitry in a plastic encio-sure with plug blades in the back and receptacle slots in the f rant. It can be plugged into a receptacle, then, the electrical product is plugged into the GFCI. Another type of portable GFCI is an extension cord combined with a GFCI. It adds flexibility in using receptacles that are not protected by GFCls.

WHERE GFCIs SHOULD BE CONSIDERED

In homes built to comply with the National Electrical Code (the Code), GFCI protection is required for most outdoor receptacles (since 1973), bathroom receptacle circuits (since 1975), garage wall outlets (since 1978), kitchen receptacles (since 1987), and all receptacles in crawl spaces and unfinished basements (since 1990).

Owners of homes that do not have GFCls installed in all those critical areas specified in the latest version of the Code should consider having them installed. For broad protection, GFCI circuit breakers may be added in many panels of older homes to replace ordinary circuit breaker. For homes protected by fuses, you are limited to receptacle or portable-type GFCIs and these may be installed in areas of greatest exposure, such as the bathroom, kitchen, basement, garage, and outdoor circuits.

A GFCI should be used whenever operating electrically powered garden equipment (mower, hedge trimmer, edger, etc.). Consumers can obtain similar protection by using GFCIs with electric tools (drills, saws, sanders, etc.) for do-it-yourself work in and around the house.

INSTALLING GFCIs

Circuit breaker and receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed in your home by a qualified electrician. Receptacle-type GFCIs may be installed by knowledgeable consumers familiar with electrical wiring practices who also follow the instructions accompanying the device. When in doubt about the proper procedure, contact a qualified electrician. Do not attempt to install it yourself.

The portable GFCI requires no special knowledge or equipment to install.

TESTING THE GFCIs

All GFCIs should be tested once a month to make sure they are working properly and are protecting you from fatal shock. GFCIs should be tested after installation to make sure they are working properly and protecting the circuit.

To test the receptacle GFCI, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. The light should be on. Then, press the “TEST” button on the GFCI. The GFCI’s “RESET” button should pop out, and the light should go out.

If the “RESET” button pops out but the light does not go out, the GFCI has been improperly wired. Contact an electrician to correct.  Note that new generations of GFCI devices are required to terminate power immediately in the event of mis-wiring, and cannot be reset until corrected.

If the “RESET” button does not pop out, the GFCI is defective and should be replaced.

If the GFCI is functioning properly, and the lamp goes out, press the “RESET” button to restore power to the outlet.

If power does not restore, the device may have failed or a fault is still present. Further investigation or replacement should be performed. Contact an electrician to correct.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter’s

November 9, 2017 by Bill

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) are the outlets that typically have black and red test buttons on them. GFCI outlets are intended to shut down the electricity to that outlet and other protected outlets when a shock hazard is detected in the electrical system. These safety outlets should be present near all sources of water and near metal-encased appliances that do not have electric motors (such as a cook top, oven, coffee maker, toaster, etc.). GFCI-protected outlets are outlets that are “downstream” of GFCI outlets, meaning that they are on the same circuit as a GFCI outlet and being “monitored” by that GFCI. If there is no electricity to a protected outlet, the GFCI outlet at a separate location might have tripped and disconnected electricity to the circuit. Typical areas where you might find GFCI or GFCI-protected outlets include garage, laundry, kitchen, bathrooms, and exterior locations. Usually the kitchen GFCI outlet will control any other outlets in the kitchen (sometimes more than one GFCI outlet is present in the kitchen). Sometimes all the bathroom outlets are placed on the same circuit, with only one GFCI outlet protecting the outlets in all the bathrooms. Occasionally a GFCI outlet in the garage will protect outlets in various bathrooms. Such garage installations can be inconvenient, particularly in multi-story buildings.

How does a GFCI outlet operate?

This is the simplified “layman’s terms” version:

Picture a little electrician living in the GFCI. He watches the electricity come in over one shoulder and go out over the other shoulder. If there’s no difference, he just sits there. If a difference is created, (you drop your shaver or hair dryer into the tub or sink), he immediately shuts down the electricity attempting to keep you from being shocked. He is very sensitive and can detect the slightest difference.

The problem with this little electrician is that he likes fishing. One of these days, he is going to get up and go fishing. When he does, he isn’t coming back. The only way you’re going to know if he is still in there is to test the outlet or breaker every 30 to 45 days.

How do I test them?

To test the GFCI outlet, first plug a nightlight or lamp into the outlet. Turn the light on, and then press the “TEST” button on the GFCI outlet. The GFCI outlet’s “RESET” button should pop out, and the light should go out. If the GFCI outlet is functioning properly, meaning that the light does go out, press the “RESET” button to restore power to the outlet. If the “RESET” button pops out but the light does not go out, either the GFCI outlet is not working properly or it is incorrectly wired. Call a qualified electrician to evaluate the problem.
You should test the GFCI outlets as soon as you move in to a house, noting at the same time any protected outlets that may be present and which GFCI outlets control those protected outlets; typically the protected outlets should be labeled as such. Although they are proven life-saving devices, GFCI’s are known to fail on a regular basis and should be tested monthly to ensure that they are functioning properly. If GFCI outlets trip regularly, consult a qualified electrician immediately to determine why the tripping is occurring.

Tip:
Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices was common several years ago; however, nuisance tripping issues have been corrected on all current generation GFCI devices and the reliabilty of the devices has increased.  Nuisance tripping no longer occurs even for sump pump circuits, hair dryers, and refrigeration circuits.  If a GFCI device is tripping continually, a safety problem exists and a qualified electrical contractor should be consulted.

I never had those in my house!

Some of the currently required locations for GFCI’s may not have been required when your house was constructed, however, it is recommended that all outlets needing ground fault protection, as recognized by the newest national safety standards be upgraded. We also recommend that a licensed electrician complete this upgrade. Safety standards and codes are set for a reason; they save lives! These safety codes are always being improved upon as knowledge increases and technology improves.

FYI:
The following dates indicate when nationally accepted minimum safety standards required GFCI protection. The local minimum safety standards may have adopted this protection at an earlier or later date.

DATES GFCI REQUIRMENTS WERE ESTABLISHED:

  • 1971 Receptacles within 15 feet of pool walls
  • 1971 All equipment used with storable swimming pools
  • 1973 All outdoor receptacles
  • 1974 Construction Sites
  • 1975 Bathrooms, 120-volt pool lights, and fountain equipment
  • 1978 Garages, spas, and hydro massage tubs
  • 1978 Outdoor receptacles above 6ft. 6in. grade access exempted
  • 1984 Replacement of non-grounding receptacles with no grounding conductor allowed
  • 1984 Pool cover motors
  • 1984 Distance of GFCI protection extended to 20 feet from pool walls
  • 1987 Unfinished basements
  • 1987 Kitchen countertop receptacles within 6 feet of sink
  • 1987 Boathouses
  • 1990 Crawlspaces (with exception for sump pumps or other dedicated equip.)
  • 1993 Wet bar countertops within 6 feet of sink
  • 1993 Any receptacle replaced in an area presently requiring GFCI
  • 1996 All kitchen counters – not just those within 6 feet of sink
  • 1996 All exterior receptacles except dedicated de-icing tape receptacle
  • 1996 Unfinished accessory buildings at or below grade
  • 1999 Exemption for dedicated equipment in crawlspace removed
  • 2005 Laundry and utility sinks. Removed exemption for sump pumps in unfinished areas
  • 2008 All Kitchen counter receptacles (exemption for refrigerators removed).  Removed exemption for refrigerators and freezers in unfinished areas. Also beginning in 2008, ALL receptacle outlets installed in damp and/or wet locations are required to be listed as weather-resistant, INCLUDING GFCI receptacle outlets, these are typically identified by the abbreviations ‘WR’ on the face of the receptacle outlet with the ‘WR” visible after installation
  • 2014 All dishwasher receptacles, All receptacles within 6 feet of ANY sink regardless of location, ALL receptacles in Laundry (not just sinks)

Exemptions and additions continue to change with each revision of the National Electric Code.  This list should not be considered final or definitive.

Flu or Carbon Monoxide Poising?

November 9, 2017 by Bill

The flu and carbon monoxide (CO) poisoning share many symptoms: headache, dizziness, nausea, weakness, confusion and fatigue.  However, while CO poisoning does not come with a fever, the flu does.

If you have flu symptoms, but no fever, remind your physician about the possibility of CO poisoning.

The Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) estimates that over 200 people a year die, while thousands more are treated for CO poisoning by hospital emergency rooms and private physicians.  Other organizations place these estimates even higher.

How can you prevent becoming an annual statistic from CO poisoning?

  • Have all gas burning appliances inspected and serviced annually by a professional technician.
  • Have all chimneys and flues checked annually for loose connections, blockage, corrosion, etc. Also make sure you properly open the flue on any wood burning appliance or fireplace when using them.  (To avoid fire danger, make sure you have the chimney flue inspected and cleaned, each year, by a chimney sweep certified by the Chimney Safety Institute of America (www.csia.org).
  • Make sure your heating systems have an adequate intake of outside air.
  • Never use appliances such as a clothes dryer, range, or oven to heat your home.
  • Don’t leave cars running in garages, even with the door open.  If you must preheat your car, back it out of the garage and close the garage door.
  • Never, never burn charcoal in a confined space.
  • Finally, install CO detector/alarms in your home.  These detector/alarms are similar in concept to the smoke alarms that are prevalent in today’s homes.

 

There are two types of CO detector/alarms available: hardwired, (using household current); and battery powered.

  • Hardwired sensors usually purge themselves and resample for CO at a preset period of time.
  • Battery powered sensors usually react to prolonged exposure to CO.

Whichever kind you purchase, make sure the CO detector/alarm meets the requirements of Underwriter’s Laboratory (UL) 2034.  (This can usually be determined by reading the manufacturer’s label or installation instructions.)

I recommend installation of ceiling mounted detector/alarms in the following areas:

  • One on each floor of the residence (On floors used for sleeping, the detector/alarm should be placed in the hallway near each sleeping area);
  • One in the vicinity of  each major fuel burning appliance (not within five feet);
  • And one in the garage.

Consult the manufacturer’s installation instructions to ensure the right placement of the detector/alarm in each area.

Replace existing detectors every 5 years as per industry standards.  Manufacture dates are recorded on the back of every unit. If yours manufacture date label is not legible, missing, or the unit is older than 5 years, replace it NOW!

Flu shots help protect against the flu.

A CO detector/alarm helps protect against Carbon Monoxide poisoning.

Save your health — Get both.

Article Courtesy of –  Erby Crofutt, B4U Close Home Inspections   www.b4uclose.com

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